All that eating in Italy

didn't do Panchito much good

"There are a few exceptions to the decline of Chinese food in U.S. urban centers. . . . We read recently about a reputedly excellent new place in the city's Garment District, but on closer inspection, Szechuan Gourmet turned out to be a sloppy, indifferent rendition of the great, hearty food of the earthquake-plaged province . . . The ma po dou fu at Sezchuan Gourmet was muddy in flavor, beef-starved, with barely a shred of green." 

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